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How to Sight In a Rifle Scope, Step by Step

Sighting in — or "zeroing" — means adjusting your scope so the point of aim matches the point of impact at a chosen distance. Here's the whole process, plus the free calculators that do the math for you.

1. Bore sight to get close

Before you burn ammo, get the bore and the scope pointed at roughly the same place. On a bolt gun, remove the bolt, rest the rifle steady, and look down the bore at a target 25–50 yards away. Without moving the rifle, adjust the scope until the reticle sits on the same spot the bore is looking at. A laser bore sighter does the same thing faster. This only gets you on paper — it is not a zero.

2. Get on paper at 25–50 yards

Fire a careful three-shot group at 25–50 yards from a stable rest. Aim at the same point each time. Look at where the group landed relative to your aim — that offset is what you'll correct.

3. Choose your zero distance

Your zero distance depends on the rifle and how you use it. Common choices:

• 100 yards — the standard target/precision zero.
• Maximum Point-Blank Range (MPBR) — a hunting zero that lets you hold dead-on across a wide band of distances. Read the MPBR guide →
• 50 yards — common for rimfire and some MSRs.

The AHL Sight Zero tab recommends a zero and MPBR for your exact cartridge and target size in seconds.

4. Dial the correction

Scope turrets move in MOA or MIL clicks. Turrets are marked for where the impact moves: if your group is low and left, dial UP and RIGHT. The trick is turning the right number of clicks for the distance — a quarter-MOA click is only ¼ inch at 100 yards, but ½ inch at 200. Enter your miss on the Dial-In tab and it tells you the exact clicks and direction. New to turrets? Read: MOA vs MIL →

5. Confirm — then confirm again

After dialing, fire a fresh group. A true zero is confirmed with live fire, not one lucky shot. If it's centered, you're zeroed. If not, measure and dial again. You can photograph the target and let Target Cam measure the group and hand you the correction automatically.

6. Record your DOPE

Once zeroed, build a DOPE card — your drop and wind holds at each distance — and save it. A chronograph reading of your actual muzzle velocity makes every number far more accurate; you can also "true" the velocity to your observed drop right in the app.

AHL Sight is a planning aid. Always confirm your zero with live fire and follow all firearm safety rules.